It almost pains me to give up this recipe. Almost.
But I think everyone should try hyper-local specialties: Texas style enchiladas with chili gravy; Taylor ham, egg and cheese; mirabelles. It’s a taste of place. It should be a bite that makes you say, “Yes, this is what it tastes like in San Antonio.” “This is what it tastes like in northern New Jersey.” “This is what it tastes like in Nancy.” It’s one way of understanding the world in a deeper way.
This recipe harkens from my father’s mother, passed to my mother, passed to me, passed to Cherub. (She still likes my Mom’s better than mine. But she’s not wrong.) To me, this chili gravy that smothers corn tortillas that cuddle spoonfuls of ground beef, chopped onion and cheeses tastes not only of San Antonio, but of childhood and tradition and family. And love. Lots of love.
Enchilada Gravy, makes enough for approximately 48 enchiladas
1/2 c flour
1/2 c vegetable oil (or lard)
1/2 c chili powder (what your powder tastes like will be the dominant flavor of the sauce, taste for sweetness, heat, etc.)
2 heaping T ground cumin
3 or 4 garlic cloves, finely minced
Salt to taste
2 bouillon cubes dissolved in 6 to 8 c very warm water
In a large pan (ideally a cast iron skillet) over medium heat, warm the oil or lard and brown the flour lightly. Remove from heat. Add the chili powder, cumin, garlic and salt. Return to medium heat with enough water to make a gravy. Simmer for twenty minutes.
{To assemble enchiladas, warm corn tortillas in oil, then roll, filling with any combination of grated cheese, diced white onion and ground beef. Place in a baking pan in in close rows that had a ladleful of gravy covering the bottom. Ladle more gravy over the tops of the enchiladas, sprinkle with cheese or whatever fillings you’ve chosen. Cover with foil. Bake at 350 for approximately 30 to 40 minutes.}
Playlist included Blisters May Come, by Centro-Matic.
