Dough Pizzeria | 6989 Blanco Road, San Antonio, Texas | 210.979.6565
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March 20, 2012
Persephone’s Drinks Cabinet | Texas Savvy Firefly
Even a cocktail can be local and seasonal. Especially if it has lovely ruby red grapefruit juice in it along with a super smooth locally distilled vodka, in this case Savvy, out of Austin. The recipe: grapefruit juice and vodka in a two to one ratio. A splash of grenadine. Stir. Pour over ice. Superb.
Playlist included Look at Miss Ohio, covered by Miranda Lambert.
July 21, 2011
Roots | Tex-Mex Enchilada Gravy
It almost pains me to give up this recipe. Almost.
But I think everyone should try hyper-local specialties: Texas style enchiladas with chili gravy; Taylor ham, egg and cheese; mirabelles. It’s a taste of place. It should be a bite that makes you say, “Yes, this is what it tastes like in San Antonio.” “This is what it tastes like in northern New Jersey.” “This is what it tastes like in Nancy.” It’s one way of understanding the world in a deeper way.
This recipe harkens from my father’s mother, passed to my mother, passed to me, passed to Cherub. (She still likes my Mom’s better than mine. But she’s not wrong.) To me, this chili gravy that smothers corn tortillas that cuddle spoonfuls of ground beef, chopped onion and cheeses tastes not only of San Antonio, but of childhood and tradition and family. And love. Lots of love.
Enchilada Gravy, makes enough for approximately 48 enchiladas
1/2 c flour
1/2 c vegetable oil (or lard)
1/2 c chili powder (what your powder tastes like will be the dominant flavor of the sauce, taste for sweetness, heat, etc.)
2 heaping T ground cumin
3 or 4 garlic cloves, finely minced
Salt to taste
2 bouillon cubes dissolved in 6 to 8 c very warm water
In a large pan (ideally a cast iron skillet) over medium heat, warm the oil or lard and brown the flour lightly. Remove from heat. Add the chili powder, cumin, garlic and salt. Return to medium heat with enough water to make a gravy. Simmer for twenty minutes.
{To assemble enchiladas, warm corn tortillas in oil, then roll, filling with any combination of grated cheese, diced white onion and ground beef. Place in a baking pan in in close rows that had a ladleful of gravy covering the bottom. Ladle more gravy over the tops of the enchiladas, sprinkle with cheese or whatever fillings you’ve chosen. Cover with foil. Bake at 350 for approximately 30 to 40 minutes.}
Playlist included Blisters May Come, by Centro-Matic.
March 25, 2011
Persephone’s Cocina | Lamb Chili
This is as close to elegant as a bowl of chili can get – it’s more appropriate for date night than for game night. The lamb mellows beautifully after some time on the stove, the texture is velvety and tender, and the flavor is at once comforting and surprising. This recipe makes use of some bold and non-traditional spicing, and the payoff is extraordinary. The black cardamom provides a smoky warmth, the fenugreek a little burnt maple. Pair these with the traditional cumin, chili powder and coffee, and the result is wonderful. Its stunning, brick-red color is worth making it alone. It’s a refined chili with a faint, almost-Persian echo. Serve it over tamales, with some homemade cornbread, or simply with some sour cream. It’s easy, and it’s a star.
Chile de Cordero, Serves 2
2 strips bacon, chopped
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March 24, 2011
Persephone’s Cocina | Tamales
In San Antonio, tamales are an important tradition around major holidays leading to long lines at some of San Antonio’s favorite spots like Delicious Tamales and Ruben’s. I had always considered them something that might be too much work on my part, but as it turns out, they’re really not as much as I thought they’d be. Especially if you happen to have a few pinto beans leftover from a recent meal.
Last weekend’s trip to my favorite Mexican grocery store yielded dried corn husk wrappers and set me off on the wild idea to make a few for myself. So this afternoon during Cherub’s “quiet time,” i.e., the thing you do when a preschooler no longer naps, I made tamales with refritos. And because I used a recipe for the masa from Rick Bayless, which used a stand mixer (read: five minutes of work) and the beans were essentially already made, the tamales came together pretty quickly. And while I’m not suggesting you make these on your own (have a sister or a friend around to gossip with while you do it on a Saturday afternoon), they are not the daunting delicacy that you might have presumed.
And for that pleasurable bit of work and chat, you are rewarded with a tender and ethereally light corn dumpling filled with smoky, spicy beans. Truly, these are something that you need to be careful
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March 20, 2011
Sunday Breakfast | Huevos, Persephone Style
There’s something about Mexican food lately. I’m just loving the spices and the fats and the flavors and the family feel of the meals. This morning, since we had so many ingredients of Mexican origin in the fridge, I decided to do a take on huevos rancheros. It’s not really rancheros; it’s just a delicious breakfast with spicy Mexican ingredients on a crispy tortilla, topped with a huevo.
I realize that this morning’s recipe is going to look a bit too involved. But it has a couple of different simple components (the chile paste, the avocado crema) that you might consider making at some point and stashing in the freezer or have a bit leftover for a breakfast like this.
Huevos Persephone, serves two
Small link of Mexican chorizo, casing removed and sausage crumbled
1/4 of a small onion, diced
1 potato peeled and cut into small cubes
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March 20, 2011
Quick Flavor Boost | Dried Chile Paste
I have been using chile paste in a lot of my cooking lately, because it’s just so flavorful.
I make my own and use it in braises, sauces and marinades. (In chili. Duh.) It takes just a bit of time, and if you portion it out in ice cube trays and freeze it, you’ve got a little bit to add whenever you want a little kick in your cooking. And a little kick is kind of nice.
Chile Paste
4 dried pasilla chiles
2 dried chipotle chiles
4 dried Guajillo chiles
In a tall container, combine chiles and cover with boiling water. Allow to stand for 30 minutes. Drain. Remove the stems and the seeds. Do a thorough job removing seeds if you don’t want your paste too spicy, leave a few if you love heat. Add the cleaned chiles to the bowl of a food processor or a blender.
Now make sure you wash your hands really well. PK tip: Don’t touch your eyes, for God’s sake, you’ll go blind. At least temporarily.
Add a bit of water (1/4 c to start) and blend until smooth. If the chiles need a bit of help blending, add a bit more water (a tablespoon at a time).
Portion out the paste into ice cube trays or small containers. Freeze. If you used an ice cube container, pop out the cubes once they’re frozen and put into a Ziploc.
Playlist included Oh My Heart, by R.E.M.
